SPANISH MACKEREL

by Ed Halmagyi

Instructions

In teaching budding young cooks, Japanese sushi chefs will often exhort that “Fish is the only thing we call ‘off’ when it smells like what it is”.

This aphorism makes a wonderful sound bite, and is mostly accurate. But as with all things in life, the exceptions can be more interesting than the overwhelming rule. Most fish (when truly fresh) smell briny with a hint of the ocean. I compare it to the smell of the surf at high tide with the wind up. The longer a fish is out of the water the more its smell changes, until eventually it’s like a rockpool on a hot breezeless day.

Ah, the charismatic funk of decay!

But some fish start out with an already strong smell, a perfume that only intensifies through aging. The aroma of these fish, rather than reflecting poor quality, is their unique characteristic. Fisherman call these the ‘blood fish’.

Species like mullet, Australian salmon, flying fish, herrings, sardines, goatfish and mackerel share this attribute. These fish have pronounced concentrations of blood in their flanks which shows up as a dark strip along the outside of fillet. In order to preserve the freshness of the meat, these fish must be bled as soon as they are caught, by removing the head and guts then hanging the fish by its tail. If this is done, then the flavour and texture will be excellent. If not, then the fish will rapidly spoil.

But this blood is not the source of the fishy smell, in fact that perfume is a reflection of the fish’s nutritional value. In addition to their prominent bloodlines, these species also have concentrated levels of omega-3 essential fatty acids, powerful fish oils that improve heart health and brain activity in humans. But the trade off for improved wellbeing is a degree of strong taste, for fish oils are fishy in every sense.

With the Spanish mackerel season in full swing, it’s time to enjoy this powerful fish in all its aromatic glory. Choose super-fresh mackerel, and serve it up with something equally-rich to balance the flavours, but also ensure that you provide a hint of acidity to cut through the oils. This is the time for lemon or lime.

So while some fish might be big on the nose, I reckon they stink beautifully!
Spanish mackerel with potato salad and capers