Instructions
Knowledge can be an unusual beast, evolving in fits and spurts, and not always logically.
The Industrial Revolution of the mid 19th century garnered the power of steam and combustion to produce cloth (the cotton gin), movement (the train and car), and technology (street lights). But the essence of capitalism is that necessity evolves into want – that is the basis of ‘the market’.
So the whirring wheels of factory production were destined for more esoteric things.
In 1882 an inspired confectioner from York named Rowntree applied the new speed of powered manufacturing to his chocolate business. Chocolate was still a relatively new product and not yet perfected: it tended to melt in the hand before it could be eaten. While delicious, this design flaw made it harder to sell broadly.
Rowntree patented a way to coat small pieces of his chocolate in a layer of fine, crisp sugar, which protected the chocolate inside. Originally this layer was clear, and so all the buttons were brown. It didn’t take long, however, for him to realise that bright colours were easily achieved and far more saleable.
He sold them as ‘Rowntree’s Chocolate Beans’ until 1937, when they were re-named Smarties.
By this time the idea of chocolate pellets was a world-wide craze. Forest Mars Sr, founder of the Mars Corporation, came upon them in Spain and realised that this was a good market to get into. He hooked up with the head of the Hershey’s chocolate company (William Murrie) in a joint venture. ‘Mars and Murrie’ became M&M’s, now one of the world’s biggest food brands.
In the UK and elsewhere, legislation now covers the use of artificial colours in confectionery in response to concerns about their effect on children. Currently chocolate buttons in Australia of all brands still use artificial colours, although industry insiders comment that change is afoot as consumers begin to demand healthier options.
When baking with chocolate buttons, controlling oven temperature and humidity is vital to ensure the colours are not lost, and that the shells do not crack.
Chocolate button biscuits