Instructions
“It’s not really a lobster!”, Frank insisted in a tense and squeaky voice. It was barely 6am in the week before Christmas and I was getting stuck into my fishmonger about the zoology of crustaceans. In hindsight, I probably wasn’t being fair: he had more than enough to worry about already. But that’s still no excuse for a man-squeal!
Australia’s crayfish are in fact a type of lobster, although not in the traditional northern hemisphere sense. They’re called spiny lobster and there are clear differences in biology and also in their culinary qualities.
For starters, our crayfish lack the true lobster’s claws. This reflects the difference in their diets. The lobster of Europe and North America is often predatory and pounces upon any slow-moving sea life that passes in front of its cave. Hence fishermen sometimes use live bait pots to trap them. By contrast, the Australian crayfish is more of a scavenger, eating the carrion of the ocean floor. Thus it doesn’t need claws to dispose of that which is already dead.
From a cook’s perspective the species are clearly separated. Europe’s lobster is smaller in size, sweeter in flavour, and has a more delicate texture once cooked. But don’t be fooled into thinking this makes it superior. Quite the opposite.
Chefs from all over the globe celebrate Australia’s crayfish for its complex perfume, delicately briny flavour, and its perfect mouthfeel. Where northern lobster may melt in the mouth, ours is engagingly al dente. As such the Australian crayfish is more versatile and can be cooked in a wider variety of ways.
Many folks have never eaten crayfish, probably because of the price. It is a luxury whose high cost reflects its scarcity, as well as the difficulty and danger those fishermen face every day. But come now, hang the expense. You’re worth it!
But more to the point, I’m pretty sure that I’m worth it. And so, I’m planning a little man-squeal as I tuck into some crayfish this weekend. A man-squeal of delight!
Buttered crayfish with ginger and lime leaves