Instructions
In our most modern of ages, surrounded as we are by all manner of temptation and tolerance, is it permitted for a bloke to have a man-crush?
It’s not quite the same thing as my fascination with Rachel Weisz, that I’ll grant you. But then again, now that she’s Mrs Daniel Craig my chances of a chance weekend dalliance with her are scarcer than ever, hence my man-crush might be the best thing going for me.
Only problem is, the subject of my fascination is rather less than living. Indeed, to put it bluntly, he’s dead. Long dead at that.
Antonin Careme was the most brilliant pastry chef that ever lived. Some would even contend that he ranks as the supreme being of chefs generally, and it’s a logic I can’t fault.
For a chef he was something of a showman – a characteristic that pervades the industry even until now – creating magnificent centrepieces for each and every one of his celebrity events. From pyramids of marzipan to giant swans carved only from butter. From still life displays of flowers constructed only of unrecognisable fish mousses, to a working clock made from sugar and nuts. Careme realised the central truth that lies at the heart of the food business – it’s al about how the punter feels. Get them excited, and you’re on to a winner.
But amongst his other more celebrated inventions, Careme also transformed a simple dumpling dough from Austria into one of the most famous pastry goods in the world. By taking the humble Marillenknodel dumpling and baking it rather than oiling, he happened upon a light, airy, open-structured pastry that was ripe for filling. In Careme’s version, a hazelnut-chocolate custard supplied the interior, while a light coffee-scented chocolate glaze was poured over the top.
He called it the éclair.
Today you’ll find éclair’s in every cake shop from Darwin to Devonport, from Broome to Byron Bay. But each and every succulent bite’s worth owes its pedigree to the man who fills my dreams…..
Read into that what you will.
Chocolate vanilla éclair