GOAT

by Ed Halmagyi

Instructions

A good measure of whether a food is mainstream or not is its availability through major supermarkets. After all, their business is to sell us what the majority want to eat.

But tastes change with time, and those foods that once were foreign and distant can now seem utterly normal. For example, even as late as the 1980’s it was difficult to buy olive oil, except at continental delis and pharmacies. Yet today we are faced with a dazzling array of choice from pomace grade through to extra virgin, and everything in between. The same could be said for boutique cheeses, pasta, and Asian ingredients. This culinary transformation is testament to the power of our multiculturalism.

Yet, for some inscrutable reason, certain foods are still regarded warily by many Australians. Goat meat is a good example.

Goat is commonplace in South Asia, the Middle East, the Caribbean, eastern Europe, the Mediterranean, South America and Africa. Actually you’ll find goat meat cooked in pretty much any place that doesn’t have a strong Anglo-Celtic heritage.

The flavour is not dissimilar to lamb, with strong earthy tones and a rich lingering taste. However goat meat is leaner than lamb, and slightly gamier. As such it is most commonly used for slow-cooked dishes, and coupled with aromatic spice blends. You’ll find curries, braises, stews and tagines are the usual domain of goat meat. That said, the primal cuts like fillet can be grilled or barbecued well, provided that care is taken not to overcook it.

So, for the moment, you’ll have to chat to your friendly local butcher to track down some goat. Even then, he may need to order it in for you. But it is worth the extra effort. The flavour is delightful, and the meat is not difficult to cook well.

But if you’re still approaching goat with a measure of caution, cast your mind back a generation, and imagine your parents’ surprise when it was suggested that they might eat raw fish like the Japanese, or risotto like the Italians. One day, I assure you, you’ll find fresh goat meat in the fridges at your local supermarket. The question of when is up to us.
Tagine of goat, potato and preserved lemon